is a chance

for you to do your best.

~Duke Ellington

The vegetable garden in July is “payday” for all of our hard work. The temperatures are hot, the soil is warm and the plants are lush with abundant fruit. In my garden crops [...]]]>

A problem

is a chance

for you to do your best.

~Duke Ellington

The vegetable garden in July is “payday” for all of our hard work. The temperatures are hot, the soil is warm and the plants are lush with abundant fruit. In my garden crops of carrots, potatoes, beans and beets have been producing for a bit and are beginning to wind down. Others like tomatoes and peppers are just starting to ripen. In between the harvests of those vegetables there are a few others that have not performed well for various reasons; weather, insects, disease and critters. If your garden (like mine) has suffered a few setbacks, July is a good time to adjust!

Of course you won’t start tomatoes in July and see a harvest if you live in my zone 5/6 area, but there are several seeds you can sow that will delight you with harvest in fall and perhaps make up for the disappointment of any crop failures. Why leave valuable growing space empty when you can harvest from it again in September?! Lettuce bolted? Summer squash mildewed? Beans through producing? Remove those spent crops and compost. (Never compost diseased plants.) Prepare the beds with new additions of compost and rake smooth. Seeds for beets, fennel, carrots, cauliflower (yes!), beans, kale, turnips, lettuces, summer squash, radishes and greens can all be direct-sowed into the garden this month with successful harvests in September and beyond. A few, like the summer squash may not produce as prolifically in the shorter daylight and cooler evening temperatures of late summer, but after the daily harvests of other crops in July and August slower is kind of nice.

Go ahead… pull up the veggies that are finished or failing and renew your growing space. Just because it’s summer doesn’t mean the season is ending! A few things to remember when sowing fall seeds:

• Seeds need moisture to germinate. Sowing the seeds a bit deeper than normal keeps them from drying out in the hot topsoil layer.
• A light mulch of grass over the entire seedbed allows the soil to remain cooler and moist for germination.
• A row cover will prevent hungry birds and critters from snatching your seeds and seedlings as they forage in the garden.

Happy gardening!

Share this post

Hide Sites

You get the chicken by hatching the egg,

not by smashing it.

~Arnold H. Glasgow

Now is the time in the garden I call “the waiting place.” The seeds are sown, the seedlings tucked in and creeping onward and [...]]]>

The key to everything is patience.

You get the chicken by hatching the egg,

not by smashing it.

~Arnold H. Glasgow

Now is the time in the garden I call “the waiting place.” The seeds are sown, the seedlings tucked in and creeping onward and upward steadily each sunny day. The early spring lettuces are ripe for picking, so are the tender shoots of fresh herbs…but the majority of the garden has me in growing limbo as I wait for summer squash blossoms to appear, baby peas to swell and that first tiny green tomato.

The weather is balmy and I’d happily be busy pottering in the vegetable garden except that there isn’t much to do right now. The beds are mulched, weeded and watered and aside from the occasional fertilizing of new broccoli heads or tying up straggling pea vines the garden doesn’t need me right now. So I wait.

I’m really not good at waiting. I have patience for the vegetables and flowers to grow in the time they require, but to sit idle is not my style. So what is there to be done while in this “waiting place”? Day one I potted up four window boxes with our youngest daughter. Day two I planted new ornamental shrubs and roses along the entire front of the house. I’ve given the pup a (bad) haircut and I’ve cleaned cotton tree seeds out of the pond. I’m wondering after just three days…how much longer until the vegetable garden needs me again?!  *Sigh*… I guess there’s always the housework.

Nah, I think I’ll sit and watch the peas swell instead.

Share this post

Hide Sites

Not just eat it, but taste it?

You can’t taste the beauty and energy of the earth in a Twinkie.

~Astrid Alauda

Pollination. It’s how plants produce fruit. Well, partly. Plant reproduction is a cycle. When a seed is sown it [...]]]>

Did you ever stop to taste a carrot?

Not just eat it, but taste it?

You can’t taste the beauty and energy of the earth in a Twinkie.

~Astrid Alauda

Pollination. It’s how plants produce fruit. Well, partly. Plant reproduction is a cycle. When a seed is sown it germinates and grows and eventually matures to produce a flower (blossom). The reproduction cycle begins anew with those flowers.

Very briefly:

• All flowers contain a stamen (produces pollen) and a stigma (receives pollen) as well as other male and/or female reproductive parts.
• Pollination is the transferring of pollen from the stamen to the stigma.
• For the plant to form a seed and fruit, fertilization must take place next.
• Fertilization occurs when the pollen that’s landed on the stigma reaches down to penetrate a ripe ovule within the ovary of the plant.
• When the ovule cell and pollen cell unite, a zygote or immature seed begins to form. From there on, the ovary will continue to enlarge and toughen to protect the growing seed.
• The fruit is the enlarged and ripened ovary containing the seed.

Easy enough. For some, confusion lies not in the process but the terms associated with it. Understanding the differences is important if you choose to save seeds from the vegetables you are growing. Simply defined:

Self-fertile (also called self-pollinating) accept their own pollen and produce seed and fruit without need of outside assistance from wind or insects. The seed produced will grow into plants resembling the parent. Self-fertile vegetables include:

• Peas
• Lettuce/endive/escarole
• Lima beans
• Snap beans
• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplant

Open-pollinated (insect-pollinated) plants require insects or the wind for the transfer of pollen. To save pure seed these plants must be separated (or isolated and hand-pollinated) in the garden. The following are vegetables pollinated by insects:

• Cabbage family (cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, broccoli,brussels sprouts)
• Carrots
• Cucumbers
• Melons
• Squash
• Pumpkins
• Carrots
• Onions

Cross-pollination occurs when an open-pollinated flower accepts pollen from another plant within the same species but with different genes. (Different varieties of the same vegetable and it’s “wild” relatives.) It’s important to note that although very rare, self-fertile plants can occasionally cross-pollinate.

Heirloom plants are defined as plants developed through open-pollination before 1940. All heirloom plants are open-pollinated.

Hybrid seeds are produced by the intentional crossing of two genetically different plants through controlled pollination and human intervention. The process refers to plant breeding, which often uses two unrelated heirloom plants to create a new more vigorous variety. Seed saved from hybrid plants rarely grows true to the parent hybrid plant.

GMO (genetically modified organism) plants have been altered genetically by the transfer of DNA molecules from one or more unrelated organisms to create new novel gene set. The combinations bring together genes that would never naturally cross, such as animal and plant DNA.

How does this help in saving seeds?

• You don’t need to separate self-fertile plants by more than a few feet in the garden.
• Different varieties of the same open-pollinated plant need to be separated/isolated in the garden to preserve seed purity.
• Do not save seeds from hybrid vegetables.
• Don’t eat or grow GMO.

Happy gardening!

Share this post

Hide Sites

There’s nothing like listening to a shower

and thinking how it is soaking in around your green beans.

~Marcelene Cox

Do you remember the first seed you ever planted? Mine was a bean seed. I grew [...]]]>

Weather means more when you have a garden.

There’s nothing like listening to a shower

and thinking how it is soaking in around your green beans.

~Marcelene Cox

Do you remember the first seed you ever planted? Mine was a bean seed. I grew it as an experimental part of a school unit on plants in the fourth grade. We dampened a paper towel, wadded it up gently and placed it in a clear plastic cup. I was handed a single bean seed to place between the side of the cup and the paper towel. I observed and made notes as the seed germinated. I clearly remember being fascinated by the first slender root that emerged followed by tiny hairs that fanned out and burrowed through the paper towel. Beans remain my favorite garden plant.

Beans are relatively easy to grow and there are several varieties for the home gardener to choose from. If you are new to growing vegetables try beans! The following may help you to decide which variety (or varieties) to try.

First choose the growth habit you would prefer:

• Bush beans are the most commonly grown form of garden bean. The plants grow to be from 14″-18″ tall (with heirloom varieties being on the taller end) and produce a single crop over a two week period.Seeds may be sown every week up until 60 days before the first fall frost to ensure a harvest throughout the summer.

• Pole beans require a tall support (or poles) for the 8′ (or more) vines to grow on. The vines will grow up the support by twining around it (not by tendrils). Young vines may need your assistance getting started.Pole beans will take longer to produce than bush beans, but they produce heavily and may be harvested throughout the season until frost. Heirloom varieties include: “Lazy Wife”, “Gold of Bacau”, “Scarlett Runner” and “Rattlesnake”.

Next choose the type of bean:

• Green beans (snap beans)/wax beans are slender, round and average 6″ in length. They are excellent fresh as well as for canning and freezing for winter use. Heirloom varieties widely available include “Tendergreen”, “Provider”, “Dragon Tongue”, “Landreth’s Stringless”, “Pencil Pod” and “Beurre De Rocquencourt”.
• Romano beans are an Italian variety that are available as a bush or pole beans. They have broad, flat, meaty pods that average about 5″ in length. They can be used the same way as snap beans. Heirloom varieties include “Romanette Bush”, “Roma”, and “Greencrop”.
• French filet beans are unlike other beans, their flavor is exceptional! The beans are very thin and straight, measuring a mere 3/8″ around and 5″-7″ in length. The color is a very deep green and may be streaked with purple. They bear heavily and should be picked very frequently before growing large and tough. Use as you would snap beans. Heirloom varieties include “Maxibel”, “Fin de Bagnol”, “Climbing French”, “Jade” and “Masai”.
• Lima beans are available as pole or bush types. The 4″-5″ long pods bear 3-5 flat beans per pod for fresh eating or drying. Heirloom varieties include “Christmas Lima”, “Fordhook Bush”, “Jackson Wonder” and “Henderson Bush”.
• Dry (or soup) beans are grown as other snap beans, but are allowed to fully ripen and dry in the pods for use in soups and baked dishes. The plants range from 18″-24″ tall depending on the variety. (Pole types are available as well.) The plants are very productive and each pod will contain an average of 3-5 beans. Heirloom varieties include “Black turtle”, “Hutterite”, “Jacob’s Cattle”, “Marfax”, “True Red Cranberry”, “Soldier” and “Wren’s Egg”.

There are hundreds of varieties of beans to choose from, I’ve mentioned only a few. Choose one or choose several… delicious, fresh, easy to grow beans deserve a place in every garden! Happy gardening!

Share this post

Hide Sites

At the end of January I joined a group of fellow garden bloggers in the seed GROW project. We were each supplied free “Spitfire” nasturtium seeds from Renee’s Garden to grow out together through the season. We’ll report our progress on the first Sunday of each month via our blogs. To follow the fun see [...]]]>

At the end of January I joined a group of fellow garden bloggers in the seed GROW project. We were each supplied free “Spitfire” nasturtium seeds from Renee’s Garden to grow out together through the season. We’ll report our progress on the first Sunday of each month via our blogs. To follow the fun see the list at Gardenbloggers.com and read!

Nasturtiums are a favorite flower of mine. The flowers attract bees and hummingbirds and the leaves and flowers are edible and delicious in salads and sandwiches. The immature seeds can be pickled and used like capers, too. Here’s how I planted my “Spitfire” seeds:

Using a pair of nail clippers I chipped off a small corner of the tough outer seed coat to speed germination.

I barely cover the seeds with warm tap water and let sit uncovered overnight.

The next morning, the seeds look like this. They’re softened and ready to sow outdoors.

As a special surprise, I was sent these little planters by my dear friend Helen who knows of my fondness for wearing Wellies with my sundress in the garden. I’ve decided to sow a few seeds in these planters, and the rest in the garden border.

Outside in the (rather untidy) garden, I filled the planters with regular garden soil. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow in average to lean soils as rich soils tend to produce leaves at the expense of blooms. My soil is a bit on the sandy side in this spot, it’s also under the eaves of the shed. The planters won’t get flooded with rainwater, and the seeds are away from the rich soil used for the vegetables.

I placed two pre-soaked seeds in each planter. As they grow, they’ll trail out and into the border where the other seeds are planted. I think the colors of “Spitfire” will be a lovely contrast to the green.

That’s it! Now I wait…

“I’m growing Nasturtium “Spitfire” for the GROW project, thanks to ReneesGarden.com for the seeds”

Share this post

Hide Sites

~T. Roosevelt

Every now and then a random conversation will spark an idea for a blog post.  Yesterday I mentioned that liquid kelp is a valuable and nutrient rich fertilizer for plants to a vegan friend who [...]]]>

Have you got a problem? Do what you can where you are with what you’ve got.

~T. Roosevelt

Every now and then a random conversation will spark an idea for a blog post.  Yesterday I mentioned that liquid kelp is a valuable and nutrient rich fertilizer for plants to a vegan friend who was searching for an alternative to animal-based fertilizers. That got me to thinking about the organic solutions I use created from other plants and used as fertilizers and preventatives. The best time to spray plants is in the cool early morning or late afternoon. Always test the spray on a few leaves first, if there’s no negative reaction, treat the entire plant. Julia, these are for you!

Fertilizers:

• Liquid Kelp (or seaweed) is valuable in starting seeds, preventing damping off and makes a nutrient rich foliar spray for indoor and outdoor plants. The plants’ leaves and roots store the nutrients so apply only 3x a season: at the seedling stage, upon setting plants out and at the blossoming stage.
• Compost Tea: Used like manure tea only it’s made from your own kitchen compost. To make simply put 2 c. of compost into a mesh bag, old pantyhose, sock etc. and place into 1 gallon of water. Let steep for 48 hours. For large outdoor gardens put two shovel-fulls of compost into a large container  and fill with water. Let sit 48 hours before using.

Prevention:

• Damping off: Chamomile Tea used to treat the soil when starting seeds will prevent damping off.
• Powdery Mildew: Horsetail tea (yes, horsetail that horrible invasive weed!) can be used effectively against powdery mildew on vegetables. A few dried leaves mixed into a gallon of water and allowed to steep for a day will make a concentrate that needs to be diluted before use. Mix 1 part tea to 5 parts water for use as a foliar spray.
• Downey Mildew: Chive spray. Chopped chives simmered in hot water for a few minutes and strained will make an effective foliar spray for cucumbers and winter and summer squash. It also helps to repel chewing insects.
• Black Spot: Apple cider vinegar (about 2-3 Tbsp.) mixed into a gallon of water and sprayed on roses will treat leaves affected by black spot.

There are many more. It’s worth taking a little time to read and research natural organic methods to use in the garden as preventatives and solutions to problems. It’s just as easy to mix up an herbal foliar spray as it is a harmful, synthetic concentrated one. The big difference is your health, the health of your garden and the beneficial organisms living in it. For more solutions visit the concoctions page.  Green and easy!

Share this post

Hide Sites