and almost minimal interest.

~Bill Munson

As I said in my last post, it’s a natural part of my summer garden routine to rip up clumps of comfrey and absent-mindedly toss it into the compost pile… [...]]]>

A plant’s ability to grow, increase and sustain itself became of secondary

and almost minimal interest.

~Bill Munson

As I said in my last post, it’s a natural part of my summer garden routine to rip up clumps of comfrey and absent-mindedly toss it into the compost pile… had I known it’s valuable use in my vegetable garden I may have been a bit more ceremonious in my effort. This spring season I’m experimenting with three different ways to unlock the treasure of comfrey leaves and the stash of precious minerals they contain.

The first and easiest way to use the leaves is as a mulch. I planted out tomato seedlings, laid the leaves atop the entire bed and covered them with a thin layer of compost so they wouldn’t blow away. This isn’t a “controlled” experiment, just a quick and easy way to try them and see if there’s a difference in growth from the other tomatoes. How can I know any difference is from the comfrey and not the compost? Well, I used the same compost for all so… maybe it will be obvious?

In the second bed of tomatoes I tore a few leaves into pieces and put them into the planting hole with each seedling. They were planted the same as the other tomatoes, up to their bottom leaves, and mulched with compost alone. After asking around a bit, this seems to be the most popular method of using comfrey. The leaves break down quickly in the soil and the minerals are readily used by the plants’ roots. Specifically, the available calcium will prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes. I’ve always used an eggshell for that purpose…a few leaves is just as easy and I have no worries of animals digging in the beds.

My final experiment with comfrey is making “tea” for the plants. I can’t emphasize enough that you DO NOT add water to the leaves to help them decompose. (I haven’t experienced this, but apparently the odor from the rotting leaves mixed with water is akin to smell of death…only much worse!) Cut fresh leaves, before the plant flowers, to within 2″ of the soil. Pack the leaves into a bucket,  place a weighted cover on top and leave them to reduce down into a “goo”. When a thick black liquid appears, simply pour it off and store covered in a dark place. The liquid must be diluted for use, mix 20 parts water to 1 part comfrey liquid and you have comfrey tea. My comfrey has been in full flower for a few weeks now, so I merely tossed the flowers into the compost pile and harvested the leaves. I’m starting with a small bucket to see how it works (and I mean see how it smells). If all goes well, I will begin to harvest the leaves regularly throughout summer for use as tea and compost.

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A weed is but an unloved flower.

~Ella Wheeler Wilcox

Comfrey: invasive perennial or super-garden plant? Maybe a bit of both… though I definitely lean towards the latter. Comfrey is a perennial herb (or to some a “useful weed”) and a member of [...]]]>

A weed is but an unloved flower.

~Ella Wheeler Wilcox

Comfrey: invasive perennial or super-garden plant? Maybe a bit of both… though I definitely lean towards the latter. Comfrey is a perennial herb (or to some a “useful weed”) and a member of the borage family. The thick roots tap deeply into the layers of soil mining the nutrients and storing them in the green tongue-shaped leaves. Comfrey leaves contain more nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (N-P-K) than farm animal manures and more nitrogen and potassium than garden compost. Comfrey leaves also contain calcium and iron. The leaves are excellent for composting and when used as a mulch, break down readily without robbing the soil of precious nitrogen. Pretty super, right?!

Comfrey is quick-growing and forms a spreading clump in sun or shade. Depending on the variety, it can range from ten inches to three feet tall. All varieties die back to the ground in winter. The whisker-leaved plants produce nodding bell-shaped flowers that are a magnet for bees and other pollinators. Once established it takes a lot of digging to remove comfrey roots from the soil (trust me, leave even a tiny piece and the plant will return) so take care in selecting a spot for it to thrive. That said, I simply pull up clumps of the plant and toss them into the compost pile as the season goes on. Common comfrey (Symphytum officinale) also reseeds heavily, hence the “invasive” and “weedy” labels. If you don’t want a yard full of comfrey (or you aren’t a fan of dead-heading) Russian comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) produces very little viable seed and will remain for years where you plant it. Russian comfrey is also said to yield the greatest benefits in the garden as a fertilizer. (Check back Monday for more on comfrey’s uses in the garden.)

The easiest way to grow any comfrey is from root cuttings. Lift a clump and cut the black rootstock into two-inch pieces. Plant the cuttings just under the soil’s surface, water well and in about a week new plants will emerge. (Young foliage is susceptible to attack from hungry slugs so take precautions!) Once growing, a monthly feeding of liquid kelp is plenty to satisfy comfrey’s green need for nitrogen, though I confess I’ve never fertilized my comfrey and it still grows like crazy!  New comfrey plantings should be allowed to become established for one year before harvesting the leaves for use.Once well-established, the plant can be cut back to 2″ above the soil throughout the season and the leaves used in compost or to make comfrey garden tea.

Near the end of the season, around the middle of August, leave the plants to grow and flower without further cutting so they’ll remain vigorous and healthy the following year. After three years the plants can be dug up and divided regularly. To divide ours, I simply plunge the spade into the plant in early spring when the leaves emerge and lift a chunk to move. The divisions die back when planted, give them a week and they’ll recover and start growing all over again.

I’m experimenting with several different methods for using comfrey in the garden this year. If you’d like to know more about what I’m trying please check back for my next post on Monday. Happy gardening!

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there’s rue for you;and here’s some for me;

we may call it herb of grace o’Sundays.”

William Shakespeare, Hamlet

Many of the most commonly grown garden herbs thrive in bright sun and very warm soil. Herbs like tarragon and [...]]]>

“There’s fennel for you, and columbines;

there’s rue for you;and here’s some for me;

we may call it herb of grace o’Sundays.”

William Shakespeare, Hamlet

Many of the most commonly grown garden herbs thrive in bright sun and very warm soil. Herbs like tarragon and lavender, basil, oregano and thyme are perfect in a container or bed located in bright sun that mimics their Mediterranean heritage. Does that mean for a shady yard growing herbs is out of the question? Not at all!

There are several herbs native to woodland habitats that thrive in shaded areas. Some herbs, though not native to shade, will happily grow in dappled sun but with a more loose and upright habit. Consider growing these herbs in a shady corner of the garden, as accents under trees, or in containers for an area with dappled sun. The herbs listed with an (N) are native to shade, the others will grow in full sun or partial shade.

• Angelica: (N) The leaves are delicious in soups, salads, stews. The stems are often candied and are used to replace rhubarb in  recipes.
• Beebalm: As well as being a magnet for bees and butterflies in the garden, the leaves make a delicious tea.
• Chervil (N): The leaves and stems are prized in French cooking.
• Dill: Delicious used to season fish, eggs and vegetables. Host plant for Black Swallowtail butterflies.
• Fennel: Leaves, stems and seeds have a light licorice flavor. Excellent as a substitute for celery.
• Ginger (N): Use the root fresh or dried to add a spicy citrus flavor to dishes. Also wonderful for tea blends.
• Lovage: The leaves have a flavor similar to celery and make an ideal substitute. It’s easiest to dry the leaves for use.
• Parsley: Available in curled leaf and flat leaf varieties. The key ingredient in salsa verde.
• Rosemary: Pine and mint flavors. Excellent in salad dressings and marinades, also wonderful with orange peel for tea.
• Sweet cicely (N): Tastes of celery and anise. Wonderful in soups and with fish and fruit.
• Sweet woodruff (N): Vanilla scented. Wonderful as an ingredient for tea, May wine and potpourri.
• Tarragon: Light licorice flavor is wonderful with meat and vegetables. Ideal in sauces, vinegars and butters.
• Thyme: There are several varieties each with their own unique flavor, all include a faint clove taste. Excellent for use in cooking as well as in tea.

Finding herbs that will flourish in your light conditions may require a bit of trial and error. Remember that soil health is just as important in shady areas as sun. Compost and organic fertilizers will enrich your soil and keep your herbs healthy and strong. Frequent applications of fertilizers to herb plants will diminish their essential oils and lessen their flavors. Applications of liquid kelp twice a season will provide beneficial nutrients. There are many other plants native to shady woodlands that have herbal uses. For more information on your local native herb plants check with your local Cooperative Extension.

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and a pinch of creativity.”

It’s not quite January and already several friends and neighbors have asked me what I’ll be planting in the garden. The question comes up every winter and is inevitably followed by “What should I plant?” I don’t mind offering a plant selection for [...]]]>

“Enthusiasm is excitement with inspiration, motivation

and a pinch of creativity.”

It’s not quite January and already several friends and neighbors have asked me what I’ll be planting in the garden. The question comes up every winter and is inevitably followed by “What should I plant?” I don’t mind offering a plant selection for a dry sunny spot, or recommending a favorite squash or tomato variety for the vegetable garden…but I don’t like telling people “what to plant”.  Gardens should reflect their gardeners, that’s what makes them unique and interesting.

Where do you start? Look around. Your interests and hobbies offer many ideas that can be incorporated into a garden. A few suggestions to get you thinking:

• Butterflies: Provide food for butterflies in your garden. Perennials like butterfly bush, Joe-Pye weed, butterfly weed, aster, bee balm, coneflower, daylily, Jacob’s Ladder, herbs like dill and fennel and colorful annuals like cosmos, zinnias, heliotrope and sunflowers.
• Tea: Make your own herbal tea blends from flowers and herbs like bergamot, yarrow, anise hyssop, calendula, chamomile, rose hips, mint, stevia, lavender.
• Birds: Provide shelter by planting maples, dogwoods, viburnums and pines. Plant vines like rose, cardinal climber and morning glory. Provide food with hollies, cherries, currants and elderberries as well as seeds/nectar from columbine, yarrow, beardtongue, cosmos, penstemon and coneflowers.
• Beer/Wine: Great for home brewers. Try planting a hops variety or two, edamame,  ginger, avens, grapes, elderberries and sweet woodruff.
• Craft: Dried everlastings make beautiful wreaths etc. Try baby’s breath, strawflower, larkspur, alliums, yarrow and statice.
• Color: Easy! Select your favorite annuals and perennials in a single color. The latest hybrids include green and brown (chocolate) blossoms.
• Habitat: Give back a bit of your yard to it’s origins. Select native species of trees, shrubs and wildflowers that will attract wildlife as well as provide food and shelter. Add birdhouses, bat houses, water features etc.
• Storybook: Fun to plant with kids. Think “Jack and the Beanstalk” with sunflowers, tee pees of pole beans and peas, larger than life pumpkin vines.

There are more… like to knit? Grow plants that can be used as dyes for yarn. Have pets? Plant a pet garden with rye and wheat grasses and greens like catmint that pets enjoy. Be creative, be realistic (you can’t grow shade plants in full sun or blackberries in a bog) and be inspired!  Even in limited space plants can be grown in pots, wheelbarrows and other containers. Use your imagination!

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E.B. White

With 2010 seed selections becoming available it’s not too soon to begin planning the summer garden. If you’re considering planting a garden for the first time (or know someone who is and need gift ideas), this list of  easy-to grow vegetables will [...]]]>

“Before the seed there comes the thought of bloom.”

E.B. White

With 2010 seed selections becoming available it’s not too soon to begin planning the summer garden. If you’re considering planting a garden for the first time (or know someone who is and need gift ideas), this list of  easy-to grow vegetables will get you started. While not completely “fail-proof” they are quite forgiving and produce well throughout the season.

The list (with sample heirloom varieties) includes:

• Radishes: “Early Scarlett”, ‘French Breakfast”, “White Icicle”
• Peas: “Little Marvel” (dwarf shelling pea), “Dwarf Gray Sugar” (snow pea),”Super Sugar Snap” (snap pea)
• Lettuce, mesclun mix, spinach: “Black Seeded Simpson”, “Lolla Rossa”, “Merlot”, “Brune d’Hiver”
• Beans: “Bountiful” (green bush bean), “Brittle Wax” (yellow wax bean), “Royal Burgundy” (purple bush bean)
• Summer squash: “Ronde de Nice”, “Cocozelle” (zucchini), “Early Summer Crookneck” (yellow squash)
• Winter Squash: “Delicata” (short vines) “Table Queen” (acorn), “Waltham Butternut”
• Carrots: “Chantenay”, “Danvers Half Long”
• Tomatoes: “Amish Paste”, “Brandywine”, “Earliana”, “Beefsteak”
• Peppers: “Hungarian Yellow (wax pepper), “Giant Marconi” (sweet bell), “Joe’s Long Cayenne” (hot)

No garden is complete without flowers to attract bees and other beneficial pollinators. These annuals are easily grown from seed and provide food for bees and butterflies:

• Sunflower
• Zinnia
• Marigold
• Bachelor Button
• Cosmo
• Calendula
• Morning Glory ( climbing vine)
• Sweet Pea ( climbing vine)
• Nasturtium (trailing vine)

Finally, herbs are easy to grow from seed and it’s much more economical than buying single plants. Most do well grown in pots as well as the garden:

• Basil
• Sage
• Cilantro
• Dill
• Parsley
• Thyme
• Chives
• Oregano
• Anise

Not on a mailing list? Shop online (seed sources) where many sites offer web-only specials. You’ll get the choice of 1000’s of organic heirloom seeds and stop paper waste. Check back here every Tuesday and Thursday in December, too, I’ll highlight different vegetables each day and offer tips for successful growing.

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To all veterans, today and everyday, a very sincere thank you.

It’s another beautiful day here in Rochester, I spent it gardening indoors and out. Another trip to the herb garden brought sage and [...]]]>

“Courage is the price that Life exacts for granting peace.”

Amelia Earhart

To all veterans, today and everyday, a very sincere thank you.

It’s another beautiful day here in Rochester, I spent it gardening indoors and out. Another trip to the herb garden brought sage and parsley and thyme as well as some Lunaria (“money plant”). The herbs will be slipped under chicken skin with a little olive oil and lemon slices and grilled for dinner. The dried flowers will be pretty tucked into napkin rings with sprigs of rosemary at the Thanksgiving table.

The mums are still vibrant and I’m hoping they’ll last until Thanksgiving, what a blessing to have fresh flowers at the table! I could pick and dry them or pot them up, but it’s just not the same. I’ll wait and hope. The Rouge Vif D’Etampes pumpkins are holding on in the warmer-than-usual Rochester weather,too. I really must get the seeds before any signs of rotting appear.

This morning after a bit of cleaning I went to check on the seedlings and the Tat Soi has sprouted. I can also see the sprouts of onions and peppers starting as well as the mache. The eggplant seeds are taking their time, but eggplant is like that. Each in it’s own time. I think this weekend I’ll be potting the lettuces and mesclun into “true” pots, they are quickly filling in the newspaper plugs (right).

Today is Wednesday and that means new recipes are listed on the November recipes page.  Take a look and give one (or all) a try! Paired with a salad of mixed winter greens they’re fast and healthy. Let me know how you like them! Next week’s recipes will be all about Thanksgiving…

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Stevia [...]]]>

Yesterday’s post was about growing the herb stevia whose intensely sweet leaves are used as a natural sugar substitute. It’s non-caloric and has zero carbohydrates making it ideal for people on restricted diets such as diabetics. Today I thought I’d pass along a few tips for using it and a couple of recipes, too.

Stevia transplants and cuttings.

To make a powder like the ones found in stores simply crush the dried leaves in a coffee grinder. Store the powder in an air tight container in a cool dark place. When using remember that one tablespoon of stevia equals about one cup of sugar.

For a liquid concentrate: Mix roughly one teaspoon of the crushed stevia into 3 teaspoons of water. Stir thoroughly and store in a bottle in the refrigerator. Use a medicine-style dropper for measuring, 1/4 tsp. equals one cup of sugar.. The concentrate is good for sweetening home-made jams and jellies etc.

To make a syrup measure 1/4c. of fresh (not dried) crushed leaves into 1 c. very warm water. Let the mix sit for 24 hours. Strain and refrigerate. The syrup is great for sweetening hot or cold beverages.

RECIPES

Low-Fat Vegetable Dip

• 1 c. low-fat organic yogurt
• 1/2 tsp. dried dill
• 2 tsp minced onion
• 1/4 tsp. salt or one pinch of thyme
• 1/4 tsp. stevia powder

Mix all ingredients thoroughly. Chill several hours.

Lemon Sherbet:

• 1/3 c. fresh squeezed lemon juice
• grated rind of one lemon
• 1/4 tsp. lemon extract
• 2 c. organic low-fat milk
• 1 tbsp. powdered stevia

Combine lemon juice, rind,extract and stevia. Add the milk and stir well. Pour into a tray and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours. Remove from freezer and scoop into a well-chilled bowl. Beat with an electric mixer until creamy. Pour into container and freeze 2 hours until firm.

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Stevia Rebaudiana is an herb. The extra-sweet leaves are used as a natural sugar substitute. It’s native to South America, but I’ve grown it [...]]]>

I have four stevia seedlings growing in a pot on the windowsill. With cold weather looming it’s time to transplant and move them to a warmer spot. The indoor garden is perfect!

Stevia Rebaudiana is an herb. The extra-sweet leaves are used as a natural sugar substitute. It’s native to South America, but I’ve grown it successfully as a summer annual in my Zone 6 garden where it produced plenty of leaves for fresh use. Fall cuttings root easily for indoor growing over winter.

To grow Stevia indoors use a 12″ pot filled with a light organic potting mix. Keep the plants evenly moist by placing the pot in a shallow dish of water and fertilize with diluted liquid kelp once a month to replenish nutrients. Pinch the tops back one third to encourage branching and leafy growth. To start from seed, follow the steps for seed starting found here, maintaining moisture and warmth until germination.

To plant Stevia outdoors, wait until daytime temperatures reach 70 degrees. Stevia prefers a moist, loamy, well-drained soil. A raised bed filled with organic compost works well. Space the plants 10″ apart in the bed and mulch deeply. Keep the soil moist but don’t soak the leaves, they’ll rot. With any herb, fertilize sparingly or the flavor (in Stevia’s case the sweetness) will be greatly diminished. Harvest regularly to encourage new growth. Leaves can be used fresh or dried.

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