Making the Bed

“While it is relatively easy to recognize the perennial grasses and

seed-eating sparrows as characteristic of meadows,

the ecosystems exist in their fullest sense underground.

What we see aboveground is only the outer margin of an

ecosystem that explodes in intricacy and life below.”

~Amy Seidl

The days are starting earlier and brighter and temperatures are slowly creeping upward. Spring is nearing and it’s time to think about the first of the garden chores. Just as the first chore in the morning for many is making the bed, so it goes in the garden as well.

Raised beds for gardening have several advantages. They warm earlier in spring, they’re easier to maintain, the soil can easily be tailored to specific plants’ needs and most importantly the soil stays friable (soft and crumbly) for growing roots that greatly dislike the compacted paths of level gardens. Many gardeners construct raised beds with wood or composite frames, but it isn’t necessary. To have a raised bed ready for seed sowing and spring seedlings, start two to three weeks before your planting out date (Last frost dates here).

In three easy steps:

Size: Determine the size of the bed(s). An ideal size is 3′-4′ wide and any length you prefer. Use a spade to loosen existing sod and flip it grassy side down on top of the soil underneath.
Depth: The deeper the soil the more room for plant roots to grow. An ideal depth is 12″-18″ which is easily reached after building the soil for a few seasons. For a new spring bed, aim for no less than 9″. To build the layers, simply pile equal amounts of compost, peat moss, rotted manure and any topsoil from the grass on top of the overturned sod to the recommended depth. Taper the sides of the bed and level the top. Mulching will keep the soil from eroding on the top and sides.
Fertilizer and pH: Plants need three major nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) for growth. Additions of organic fertilizers like bone and blood meals, fish emulsion and wood ash provide needed nutrition during active growth. pH refers to the acidity of the soil and affects how well plant roots can absorb the nutrients. A simple test available in garden stores will give you a general reading. Acid soils have a pH of 6.9 and lower, alkaline 7.1 and higher. Most vegetables grow best in the 6.0 to 7.0 range.

Yes, it’s just that easy! Throughout the season, additions of organic mulches and fertilizers will continue to build the soil. At the end of the season a final application of compost and manure will prepare the bed for the following spring. Before too long, making the bed will be just as much a habit outdoors as in…but more fun!